We left the lovely Raglan Motor Inn, Warrnambool, said goodbye to Ian and Sally, our hosts for two nights, and cycled with a bit of a tailwind towards the Great Ocean Road. 

The Great Ocean Road is a fantastic scenic 243km route along the south east coast of Australia. It was built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932 and is dedicated to those killed during World War 1. Construction was by hand through dense wilderness and steep coastal mountains and through their outstanding effort these guys created the world’s largest war memorial.

On this day the weather was changeable and although, throughout the day, we went through the usual routine of rain jackets on, rain jackets off, we didn’t actually get wet. Whilst eastern Australia has had record rainfall in recent weeks we have escaped with a couple of minor showers – it all seems to happen around us and we’re not complaining. I know I shouldn’t have said that because I know what’s going to happen now! 

As soon as we hit the Great Ocean Road the skies cleared and the coastline looked magnificent.  Pictures really can’t convey the grandeur of the scenery along the Southern Ocean. 

After 69km we arrived at Port Campbell and walked into town where we shared the biggest bag of chips in the world. Thank goodness Susan is a big eater. 

The following day started with a nice cycle along the coast to another scenic attraction known as the 12 Apostles which are a collection of limestone stacks. Currently, there are 8 stacks as one fell into the sea in 2005. What happened to the other 3? Well there was only ever 9 so it’s a bit of a misnomer. 

The scenery is magnificent and on this day the skies cleared. Oh it was also very windy and gusting galeforce but I’m not going to complain – it was westerly 😀

That was the fun part of the day because then we had to cycle up Lavers Hill with tight hairpin bends and long inclines at grades of 10 and 12%.  Now with this bike, the trailer and all the weight, we are happy at 5%, still okay at 7%, not so pleased at 8% and hurting at 10% and above. 

Well it doesn’t actually hurt but it’s just the hardest push on the pedals to keep going forward. Okay thats not quite true either because at 10% it’s hurting Susan. It could also hurt me as well if I put in the effort but I’m too sensible to pedal as hard as she does. I’m more of the strategic planning leader sitting waiting to be taken somewhere by the worker. Anyway, steering takes a lot of concentration and I’ve also got to keep my energy in reserve just in case. Don’t think I don’t care because I often let her stop to catch her breath and offer consoling words like ‘are you okay’. And I often praise her in public just like all the management books tell you to do. People often ask us if we have an motor on the bike – I nod yes and point to Susan. See, I’m a born leader. 

Anyway, Susan tells me it was as steep a climb as anywhere in Canada and I believe her. I don’t even have to check my GPS to confirm 910m climbing. I just had to look at her to tell it was a tough day on the bike. Certainly the toughest in Australia to date. 

Thankfully, we found an excellent roadhouse at Lavers Hill where the food was excellent and the local beer was addictive. This was followed by multi vitamin tablets, enough fish oil tablets to sink a fish, ibuprofen, gelatine, hot jelly drink, a leg rub down with volterol and sleeping by 9pm. Yes we were fit and ready for the next day. 

The following day was a relatively short 48km cycle to Apollo Bay. Unfortunately there were more hills with big gradients and it was another hard days cycle. That said, the cycle through the rainforest of the Great Otway National Park was wonderful (apart from the uphill bits of course). 

We are now having a days break in Apollo Bay.  It’s a lovely town with a bit of a touristy atmosphere and we are loving it. As the advert said ‘paradise on earth’. We could easy relax here for a week but we are only a few days from Melbourne and there’s lots more to see on this coastline.  Tonight we are back at the Brewhouse. We are already regulars as they have the most magnificent array of local beers and the kind of beer food you dream of. 

There’s a beach nearby too and at every beach we visit Susan goes paddling. 

Now if you could have a pub where you could combine beach paddling and beer drinking then Susan and I would be in heaven.  

3690km to date. 

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