So we dropped off our bags at our San Diego Airbnb around lunchtime and made for the coast. It was a mere 7 miles away. As soon as we saw water at the harbour Susan wanted to stop, take a photo and finish.

Really! She has no principles. Cycle over 2,800 miles and miss the last 4 miles? It reminded me of the time she wanted to take a ferry across Lake Superior and save 7 days cycling or take the ferry to Argentia on Newfoundland and save 2 weeks of cycling. She didn’t win the argument on these days and she didn’t win today. I was her moral compass. Okay, I’m not really but for the one minute discussion I was. 🤠

So here we are on the beach at the Pacific Ocean after 2,833 miles.

So how does it feel to be finished after another long cycle? Well, much the same as we felt in St John’s and Sydney. There’s just a quiet tired satisfaction it’s finally over. No great fireworks or elation. No self congratulation. It’s job done, we move on and tomorrow just becomes a day when we don’t have to cycle.

That evening, however, was the night where I could go into a San Diego craft beer bar and ask the barman which of the draft taps is local. He replied they have nearly a hundred taps and most are local. After months of drinking Bud Light I can tell you I nearly cried!

That said, we didn’t have a party as Susan was asleep by 9pm. I wanted to awaken her and get back for all those early mornings Sgt Major Sunrise cracked the whip but I don’t think even a marching band could have woken her.

We thoroughly enjoyed our journey through the southern states of America. Few people think such a way to travel is enjoyable but, thankfully, we have met on our travels through Canada, Australia and now America, lots of wonderful cyclists who think like us, enjoy life like us for a few weeks and love the adventure of long distance touring.

Every day brings adventure, small or big, and I guarantee there are few of those cyclists who won’t look back and think of these days as amongst the best of their lives. The quality of life can be judged by the stories you can tell and cycle touring certainly gives you memories to value. To everyone we have met on our tours – keep cycling! ‘Do not go gentle into that good night’.

Okay back to the practical. So the wheels held up once the spokes were replaced and we had a nice round number of 20 punctures. Apart from a leaking gear lever that was sorted by tightening a screw we had no other mechanical issues. The bike is engineered and built to last. We really do put it through some punishment on the road.

After the beach we cycled the few miles back to the Airbnb. We were tired and very weary. At the corner of our street I saw a sign and took a photograph in the fading afternoon light.

So we did.

We left Ocotillo as soon as the light was up. Sgt Major Sunrise was on the case for although we had a short 18 miles to Jacumba there was nearly 3,000 feet of climbing. Never easy for two old folk on a fully laden tandem.

The first few miles were relatively easy but then we joined Interstate 8 and had to ride on the hard shoulder. The gradient over the next 10 miles gradually increased from 6% to 8% with the occasional 10% section thrown in to keep us working hard.

As we cycled across canyon bridges the hard shoulder disappeared. At the first bridge we were slow at 8% gradient and cars and trucks raced up side by side squeezing us to the side. On the next bridge (above) I felt it was safer to walk as I had a better view at what was happening behind. Watching in a small rear view mirror to see trucks pulling out barely in time to pass us is nerve wracking.

So we pushed the bike up this hill of a bridge. As vehicles arrived I got Susan to climb onto the bridge wall whilst I stayed at the side of the road with the bike. It’s okay, don’t worry Susan was safe – there was a chain link fence on the wall to stop her falling into the canyon. I didn’t have a plan B for myself other than believing I could get out of the way in time. Yes I know, just listen to me – at my age I move like treacle!

This way we crossed another couple of bridges. It was quite disconcerting but we got the job done and reached the summit. It was then a nice cruise downhill to Jacumba along the old Highway 80.

Jacumba was a well known spa town in its day but like so many towns in America when it was bypassed by the Interstate in the 1960’s it has gone into steady decline. We have cycled through countless towns on this trip that have suffered the same fate.

Jacumba Spa was a nice clean motel with draft beer and reasonable food. Oh and cross country cyclists get a 50% discount on the accommodation. Nice.

The following day was windy. The same easterly winds creating wildfires in Northern California were affecting us this morning. You would think easterly tailwinds would be welcome when we are travelling west. Unfortunately, the wind in the mountains doesn’t blow so consistently and conveniently. It hits the mountains and blows through canyons in all directions and a tailwind can change within seconds into a headwind or a side wind.

The forecast was for 80mph wind at our Pine Valley destination and there was an extreme fire risk warning. Why couldn’t we just have an easy few days cycling at the end of our journey?

It was not a consideration for us to stay a second night at Jacumba as we were getting too near the end and wanted to push on. So for 28 miles and nearly 3,000 feet of ascent we had to battle with the wind. Thankfully, it probably peaked at 60 mph for us as we topped out at an altitude of 4,000 feet.

At times we had to walk the bike as absolutely ferocious side winds hit us.

The picture looks so calm and Susan is still smiling but this is her trying to hold the bike upright in the wind. She’s going to have to get some acting lessons to convey the difficulties we were having.

Now that the weather is cooler we are able to carry chocolate bars without them melting. This allows us to have the ultimate cycling snack to maintain our energy levels. I call it the deconstructed banoffi pie.

Take a Milky Way (nougat and caramel like a Mars Bar in the UK) in one hand, a banana in the other and take alternate bites. So simple but so inspirational even if I do say so myself.

When we reached the motel in Pine Valley there was no electricity. We kind of expected this as the electric supply is cut when there’s high wind to stop cables coming down and starting forest fires.

So our motel room had no electricity but we had bike lights and after a visit to the only open shop in town we got dinner for the night.

A few choices here but I know you’re not thinking ‘mmm nice tuna‘ like Susan. Instead, you’re thinking like me – ‘mmm marvellous classic Spam‘! Sometimes I just fall on my feet.

The next morning breakfast was a can of Fanta, a cereal bar and a banana. Not great but it got us started on our cycle to San Diego. Did you hear that? San Diego!

A 10 mile cycle out of Pine Valley led us back onto Interstate 8 and yes it was still windy. We were still over 3,500 feet in altitude and we got hammered by the gusts as we descended a 6% gradient. Now that’s quite a slope that causes the tandem to quickly gather speed.

Thankfully, we had a reasonable hard shoulder, the traffic at 0630am was still light and I struggled to keep our speed below 20 mph. Anything faster and the bike was too unstable when we were hit by huge side gusts rushing down canyons as we passed.

Now the whole situation was reasonably concerning for myself but Susan, its fair to say, was reasonably frightened. At least I knew I had some control over the bike but its hard to imagine being in Susan’s position as the bike weaves all over the place.

A couple of times we were violently blown from the hard shoulder over onto the dual carriageway. When the wind hit I was aware that the road was clear and it was easier to let the bike go to the left and then bring it back. To react suddenly would have brought us down.

We couldn’t speak to each other over the roar of the wind and everything happened so violently and suddenly. Susan had no warning as we swerved out onto the carriageway and then back again. She didn’t even know if we were going into passing traffic. Each time we were lucky. If a gust had hit when trucks were behind us I would have had to bring the bike down without warning. Well I would get a warning as I would be doing it but poor Susan was going to get a fright.

We then turned into a large cut out in the mountainside and were hit by an absolutely ferocious blast of wind from behind. By this time we were down to 6 mph on a steep downhill as I was struggling to keep the bike upright.

We stopped immediately and both planked our feet on the ground and lent back against the wind. The noise was tremendous. I thought let’s wait out this gust except that it wasn’t a gust. It started to push us forward and I began to wish I was a bit more lardy to weigh us down. Honestly, it was the strongest wind I’ve ever experienced and I can’t begin to describe the feeling, the roar and the noise standing there. Frightening!

We had to move. Actually, we were moving, inching forward as we couldn’t resist the strength of the push from behind. I got Susan to lift her feet and with my feet on the ground released the brakes slightly and let the bike more forward ever so slowly a foot or two at a time. 200 yards later and we were out of this wind tunnel and it was back to being gale force. The whole experience was unbelievable and it’s been the most difficult cycling conditions we have ever experienced. And this was the last day of our cycle tour. You couldn’t make it up!

Over the next 10 miles we were off and on the bike as crosswinds hit us. Eventually, we reached a town called Alpine and the wind magically disappeared. Oh, it was still somewhere but it wasn’t where we were. But do you know what was there? McDonald’s! Like a beacon of comfort it called to us.

As we sat having our breakfast McMuffin Susan looked at me and said ‘do you know I can think of many things I would rather have for breakfast but right now this is the bees knees‘. Exactly right!

You see that’s what McDonald’s has been for us on this trip. Not the best food but right time right place, time and time again. Food is as much about the experience as it is about taste and in that regard McDonald’s has repeatedly hit the spot for us. Sorry, but if you don’t understand you haven’t lived. Thanks McD!

After our last McDonald’s breakfast we continued our cycle to San Diego with a bit of a tail wind but none of the experiences earlier in the morning. After negotiating another big city we arrived at our Airbnb around lunchtime. 47 miles done. Only 7 to go!