Where will we go next? After a few days in El Calafate it was time to head south again.

On the one hand we could detour to Puerto Natales and see more Andes mountains. On the other hand we could head toward Ushuaia, our southerly destination.

Well, we’ve actually followed the Andes for the last three months and crossed them more times than we can count. We could live without more mountains. So Ushuaia it was.

And so it was 190 miles across country to Rio Gallegos then up early the following morning for a 7am start. We made the border for opening time at 8am. Yup, we were crossing from Argentina to Chile again.

Then it was a short run down to the port to catch a ferry across the Strait of Magellan to Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire.

Our bike is hidden at the back and the other two bikes are from Brazil. Interestingly we’re all two up. Lovely people.

We compared stories of crossing the sandy ‘road’ on the way to El Chalten. Unfortunately, one of the lady pillion passengers landed in the mud when their bike fell and she hitched a lift by holding onto the wing mirror of a passing lorry. She proudly showed us the photos. Stay strong biker girl 💪

We landed in Terra del Fuego and headed for the border. No I’m not losing the place, we were heading back to Argentina – it’s not me that’s mad it’s the lines of the border that’s mad. I would show you a map but if you’re really interested you will look yourself.

Two hours later, we were back into Argentina and it was early afternoon. We had the chance of accommodation at a petrol station and Susan made a persuasive argument to stay.

‘I know it’s very basic but we can get an early finish and snacks for dinner from the garage’. ‘Snacks for dinner’ wasn’t a persuasive argument when I had ‘beers in Ushuaia’ as the counter proposal.

We both knew, however, that we had a problem and this was in Susan’s mind when she suggested an early finish – wind. No, no I’m not talking about Susan having wind. I’m referring to real wind, the blowy kind.

I’ve mentioned before the wind in this part of South America is notorious. It comes right off the Pacific Ocean and, generally, the rule is it gets worse in the afternoon. Second rule is dont ride if it’s over 70 kph as the gusts will be unbelievable and take you over the other side of the road. It’s not pleasant.

Today the wind was devilishly bad by early afternoon. We feared it may get worse as the afternoon progressed. There were a couple of moments when I thought Susan’s judgement was right and we would have to turn back and shelter in the garage with ‘snacks’.

We pushed on. It was nature versus man going for beer. Nature really didn’t stand a bloody chance!

Now the Andes mountains run north south all the way down South America until they get to Tierra del Fuego where they turn east west due to tetonic plate movement. So as we later turned west towards Ushuaia we were sheltered from the wind by the Andes. Thanks tetonic plate movement. You’ve made an old man happy.

We even had time for a photo or two.

That’s Susan looking fresh after 360 miles on the bike. Still smiling. Remarkably as we rode into town Susan said ‘I’ve really enjoyed today on the bike’. Ten hours riding with one break, absolutely battered by wind, no breakfast, couple of empenadas for late lunch, two border crossings and a ferry, potholed roads and she ‘enjoyed it’. Stay strong biker girl 💪

A few miles later we reached Ushuaia. The end of the world. Fin del Mundo.

How did we feel?

To be honest, probably more emotional than our cycles across Canada, Australia and the USA. This was different.

The magnitude of multiple countries, the stunning but challenging landscapes, wilderness and the magnificent Andes mountains challenged our confidence daily. Every day there’s a slight nervousness as we began each journey. We both feel it. It’s the uncertainty of what lies ahead that particular day. Once we’re moving we’re fine.

Then there was the always present mechanical uncertainty of the bike. Our progress depended on the bike and the mechanics of the bike was something outwith my control. Of course, it’s carried two lardy llamas the length of a continent without fail but if anything was to fail I would have been like a baby with a spanner – the best I could do was hit something!

Cycling on the tandem journeys taught us how to be strong and resilience is perhaps our greatest strength. We just know how to keep on going. The tandem journeys were immensely tiring and this motorcycle trip was no picnic either. We would do all of these journeys again in a heartbeat and we look back on them as amongst the best days of our lives.

After the obligatory Ushuaia photos we headed into town towards a nice craft beer establishment. The town was reasonably quiet and I didn’t want to sit in an empty bar so I did a reconnoitre and peaked through the windows.

One barman polishing glasses, an old local with a beer and a big black stray dog wandering about the tables. I kid you not. My heart sank – tonight I needed somewhere with a bit of life so we headed off to my reserve.

Yep it was a feckin Irish bar, The Dublin.

It’s actually the best bar in town and we managed to get the last table. They had their own draft beer and I had a few lovely New England IPAs. Susan was on pints of rubia and we had langoustines for dinner.

And guess who we sat beside? Only a feckin Irish lad from County Kerry with his Mexican wife. What a wonderful small world we live in.

Thank you Irish Argentinians. Without you our celebration in Ushuaia would have been Susan, me and a black dog.

Then again that’s not so bad is it?

Mori memorias non somnia.