Our route to Alaska was always going to be a long and winding road.

We had a break – the weather was settled and so we decided to go through to Anchorage with no rest days.

2,250 miles from Calgary in 10 days motorcycling. Doesn’t seem so challenging? Well, it’s 10 days over demanding roads, with a motorcycle carrying two old people. It was going to be tough at my age – I’m no spring chicken!

We left Jasper on the road we had previously cycled into Jasper. Yeah, yeah more memories!

We stopped on the road and tried to recreate a photo I had taken 11 years ago. That’s Mount Robson, the most prominent mountain of the North American Rockies.

We pushed on through Prince George and up the Stewart-Cassiar highway. The sun shone and we made good progress.

We kept up to date on the situation with our original planned route – the Alcan Highway. It closed for five days and whilst now open it continues to be affected by smoke. It’s not an option for a motorcycle.

On the third day we reached accommodation which was a little bit of luxury for Susan. I did say she was high maintenance!

The following day we crossed the border into the Yukon. Absolutely bloody marvellous wilderness! Love the Yukon.

The Yukon is, of course, famous for its gold rush, also known as the Klondike Gold Rush. In 1896, the idea of striking it rich led to over 100,000 people abandoning their homes and families to embark on a life threatening journey across treacherous, icy valleys and harrowing rocky terrain.

Less than half who started the trek actually arrived. Many gave up, many died. Those that made it found that reports of available gold were greatly exaggerated. The Klondike Gold Rush made some men wealthy beyond their dreams but most ended with nothing but broken dreams.

On our first night in the Yukon, we stayed in another chalet at Nugget City. More compact and bijou than luxury. I should say, Susan’s obviously not high maintenance all the time!

Met a lovely couple in the restaurant. Both retired. He was in the RCMP and she was a nurse. How often does that happen? All over the world policemen marry nurses.

Where was my nurse? What happened to her? All I got was a nursemaid!

The scenery in the Yukon was bleak and outstanding.

On route, we’ve seen brown bears, black bears and even a blonde grizzly foraging by the roadside. Once we had to stop whilst a brown grizzly slowly walked down the road centre line like he owned the place. Then we came across a very rare Canadian Lynx crossing the road with a menacing nonchalance. Wonderful.

We stayed in another chalet before crossing the border into Alaska.

And I drank another beer.

Honestly, I’m going to suffer going back to Scotland where the beer quality and choice is second division compared to what I’ve grown accustomed to since landing in Panama.

The scenery and beer are outstanding, the roads are not.

Most of the roads are paved but there’s long sections of gravel and mud. Susan hates gravel roads. Hated them in South America. Hated them in Central America. Hates them in North America.

Whenever we hit a gravel section the tension on the bike is palpable. I can’t keep the bike from slipping on occasion and this adds to the drama.

The permafrost destroys roads and, even where they’re paved, they can be treacherous. Potholes, dips, drops, undulations, subsidence, gravel pits, cracks, sand and mud are a nightmare for the motorcycle. Warning signs of danger for motorcycles are common along the road.

Sometimes, for a few miles, the road is wonderful but, suddenly, it can become very different and we’re braking hard, weaving and bouncing. When the bike comes down with a loud bang we ride along wondering if anything is broken.

Throughout the day, the road is an ever evolving challenge. You can’t take your eyes off the surface for a second. It’s pretty exhausting.

I’ve said it before and I will say it again. Susan is unbelievably brave on the back. How she copes with the bike hard braking, bouncing and slipping all over the road is unbelievable. Nobody else I know could do it!

Okay I know, I accept – nobody else would bloody want to do it!

So here’s a photo of Susan at the Alaska border. Fresh from a 20 mile mud and gravel section. Still smiling!

We were back in the USA!

Here’s me doing my crucifix impersonation.

Great, easy border crossing and the roads in Alaska are a significant improvement. Thanks America!

The Americans look after their roads (including roadside forest management) better than the Canadians. And Canadians if you’re going to retort you have a huge country and can’t afford to maintain the roads properly then give a chunk of your country to the USA. I’m sure Donald will take it 🙂

Helped by the settled, sunny, warm weather, biking through Alaska is simply magnificent.

As we approached Anchorage, the last 30 miles were four lane freeway. Oh how we flew into Anchorage.

Susan wasn’t happy we were flying faster than anyone else but, after 10 biking days on treacherous roads, I wasn’t going to take it easy today.

We finished with a flourish and then went for beer, of course!

Tomorrow is for the old man resting. The next day? Well it’s back down the same road of course.

We’re not hanging about in Anchorage. It’s a bit of a dump, if I’m being honest, but we knew that before we arrived.

We thought about taking a few days on the bike and explore the peninsula but I’m fearful the weather changes. This is North America and when a bad weather system comes in it can be devastating. I can’t contemplate riding some of these roads in very bad weather.

Also the forests are on very high alert for fire all along the Alaskan road and into the Yukon. If a forest fire arises we’re effectively stuck. There’s one way in and one way out for us.

So need to make progress whilst the weather is fair and the forests are calm.

It’s not a time for two exhausted old people to sit and nap in Anchorage.

It’s time to move. Again!

• Adventure motorcycle
• Canada
• North America