Leaving Strathalbyn also meant leaving the Adelaide hills and our cycle got pleasantly easier. We continue to pass immaculately tended vineyards in the Fleurieu Peninsula and it really was just like cycling in France. Well, until you come to signs like this and it reminds you that you are in Australia. 

Now this is an opportune time to give a Kangaroo fact or two. Did you know that kangaroo hopping is the most energy efficient means of land travel in the animal kingdom! That funny bounce, bounce allows them to cover huge distances in habitats where there is little food or water available. They can outpace a racehorse, reach 40 miles and hour and in one leap can jump 3m high and 7.6m long. The secret is the elasticity of the tendons in their legs. Amazing large marsupial facts. 

I’m not sure how energy efficient our cycling is. It seems to take a lot of food and beer to get me to cycle any distance at all and you have no idea how many biscuits and cakes Susan needs to eat. We start the day with porridge and two hours later we need our second breakfast. Then there’s lunch followed later by afternoon snack. The last few hours of cycling consist of chocolate bars, bags of sweets and sugar drinks to get us to the finishing line. After stopping, within the next half hour, we ensure we each have a pint of strawberry milk for protein and carbohydrate loading for the following day. Quick shower then out for dinner and a beer. Again, I see the beer as essential carbohydrate loading. When we fall asleep at 9pm we are absolutely knackered from all the eating. Sorry, I mean absolutely knackered from all the cycling!

After 96km we reached Meningie and because our motel of choice was full with a touring party of charity cyclists, we decided to camp. Thankfully, our campsite was a bit of a change from our usual bush camps. 

Our short 47km cycle from McLaren Vale to Strathalbyn was through Australian wine country. The scenery was outstanding, the weather was great and it would have been an absolute pleasure apart from the hills and nearly 2,000 feet of climbing. We tackled our steepest hill of the trip with a 12% grade. What does 13% mean? It means really sore legs.

Along the way we came across something that was really quite concerning. Someone appears to have been doing some genetic experiments and created long necked sheep, probably to allow them to graze in bushes and trees. They appeared happy enough and I suppose the long neck maximises the amount of wool per sheep.  That’s progress I suppose. 

Leaving Adelaide (Thursday 6th October), we had a late start at 10am to miss the morning traffic on our cycle south.  Unfortunately the roads were still busy and after 45 minutes we stopped for a break outside ‘Subway’ to buy a sandwich for lunch later that day. Now I used to enjoy a ‘Subway’ but the pleasure was taken away when someone told me there was 1500 calories in my favourite sandwich. So Susan chooses now and I really don’t care what meat filling she says is hidden inside because its dwarfed by how much salad is added.

As Susan was buying the soggy rabbit sandwich I got a text from Adelaide Post Office to say a package had arrived.  Yes it was the new seat supports for ‘Old Lardy Ass’ from the Netherlands. I said to Susan that rather than cycle back into the city centre I would arrange for it to be forwarded to Melbourne. She looked me up and down, tried to give a kind smile to soften the blow and said ‘no I think you need all the support you can get, we should go back’.  

So we cycled all the way back into Adelaide, picked up the package and cycled out again. Once, twice, three times we cycled through the city but at least I now had my extra support. 

Now in South Australia nearly every cyclist cycles on the pavement. Calm down, calm down, it’s allowed by law. Yup they are quite enlightened here and maybe they should extend it to going through red lights and across pedestrian crossings? Actually, we don’t need that as we do that already! Haha only kidding. 

Unfortunately, due to the size of our bicycle and trailer we really have to stick to the road and, in South Australia, we should be given at least a metre space when passed by vehicles in town. This doesn’t really happen and, cycling out of Adelaide, we had quite a torrid time. It’s only a minority, but not a small minority, of motorists who won’t or don’t know how to share the road. 

Eventually we found the Southern Veloway and had a peaceful cycle towards McLaren Vale. Well, peaceful apart from Susan having a panting attack when we had to cycle up a long and very steep hill. At the top we rested in a bus stop and I just wish she allowed me to take her picture – it wasn’t pretty. Oh I know, where’s my sympathy? Nobody said going nowhere fast was easy! 

52km to McLaren Vale. 

Currently cycling south from Adelaide over hills, through wine country and onto the lovely town of Strathalbyn. A big change in the scenery from the Nullarbor. Australia, a land of magnificent contrasts. 

Famous Don, Famous Pig and Us

Leaving Port Wakefield at 6.45am we headed south on the A1 towards Adelaide. The weather was clear and the wind was favourable. Although it was a reasonable 90km we were aware of possible flooding on the road ahead and wanted to get an early start. 

At 10am, after 70km, we arrived at Two Wells to find yet another police roadblock. Apparently the road ahead was under several metres of water and the diversion was 25km east to Gawler. I spoke to the traffic patrol officers as they sat in their car and ascertained that the Gawler diversion and then the expressway to Adelaide was our option. I realised this time I wasn’t going go to get through this blockade. 

Our cycle to Gawler was along a busy single carriageway road with intermittent hard shoulder. We were pleased to reach the outskirts of the town and see signs for the expressway to Adelaide. Now we didn’t want to cycle on another busy road but the area was flooded throughout and the sooner we got to our destination the better. 

I did wonder whether we would be allowed to cycle on the expressway but that’s what the police officer proposed. At least it would have a hard shoulder. So we cycled up the approach road only to see a warning sign indicating no pedestrians, bicycles etc etc! Oh fantastic!

I will cut a long story short and say it took us another two hours to find the only available road out of Gawler towards Adelaide – that time did include a quick stop for an emergency cheeseburger. 

Our cycle into Adelaide was fraught -three lanes of fast driving cars who didn’t appreciate us being there. We didn’t appreciate being there!  It really didn’t help that occasionally a cycle lane would appear for a kilometre or so then disappear. It was if they expected cycles to arrive at the cycle lane by Star Trek Transporter, cycle for a kilometre then transport out again. Unbelievable!

When we were about 12km from our destination I set our hotel name into the Garmin Edge 1000 GPS. It was set to road cycling and minimise distance and still managed to turn a 12km cycle into 62km! Honestly, my experience using routing on the Garmin is dreadfully poor and that’s being kind. It’s just not fit for purpose. I then tried to set it to automobile driving but it took a huff and turned itself off even though there was more than enough power. It just packed in. So we turned to Google Maps and Susan sat in the back seat shouting directions from her phone. 

About 5pm after 121km we reached central Adelaide and the Adina Apartment Hotel. We arrived just as the rain started and the staff were great in getting us checked in with all our gear and getting the bike stored. 

After a week of storms and flooding we are now relaxing until Thursday. Yes it’s been a problematic time from Port Pirie to Adelaide but through all the weather the only time we actually got wet was walking back from the beer shop to our motel in Port Pirie 😃👍

I’m going to refrain from commenting on how government and other agencies of South Australia have managed to prepare and cope with the recent storms – I just don’t have enough knowledge to be properly informed. That said, it does lead me to more fully appreciate the standards and professionalism we have in the UK. 👍

The weather should start clearing for the start of our next stage from Adelaide to the red balloon at Melbourne. Oh but then we have lots of hill climbs. Happy days 😩

2,808km to date. 

After four nights and three days in Port Pirie it was time to make a move before the next weather front moved in. It had been a relaxing time but we were starting to go stir crazy – Port Pirie is not the most happening place.  

At 7am on Saturday morning we set off. Yes 7am, our earliest start yet. It was awful! No I’m not talking about getting up early – that was fine. Susan gave me yogurt for breakfast! Honestly, talk about the breakfast of champions, well this wasn’t one of them! She did try to help by also giving me some banana bread but by this time I knew all she was doing was creating her own ideal breakfast.  On the other hand, my ideal breakfast has to include at least one fried egg.  Vive la difference ! 

Thankfully, our early start was accompanied by fine weather. After the cold and rain of the last few days we cycled with a bit of a tailwind in 32c. We flew along relatively flat roads and my only concern was my bright red thighs as I had forgotten to apply sunscreen. It was good to be back on the road. 

Now I bet you’re wondering how did they take that picture? I cringe when I say that we bought a selfie stick! I didn’t include my legs in the picture but just imagine it looks like I’m wearing a bodysuit in the same colour as my shirt!

We passed through the town of  Locheil and guess what they have in the lake?  Yes that’s how they spell it and it’s a lake not a loch. 

You would really think that Australia has enough of its dangerous creatures without stealing one of ours!

Shortly after this picture we came across a roadblock, southbound on the main A1 Port Wakefield Road.  A police motorcyclist informed us that the road was closed due to flooding just outside Port Wakefield, our intended destination for the night. I asked all the relevant questions but didn’t get much information in return. He was pleasant but not really that helpful. It’s perfectly understandable as he was a police motorcyclist but he looked good with his leathers and shades and he was probably very good at zooming about. 😀

We had no real alternative but to continue heading south. Our choice was 70km back to Port Pirie or a detour of at least a few hundred kilometres.  After discussion, we headed on with police approval so that we could assess the situation further down the road. 50km later we reached a second police motorcyclist roadblock. Same situation – he was looking good in his leathers and shades. Apparently it was all in the hands of a guy in charge of the road closure (Mr Road) and, after discussion, he allowed us to continue.

When we got to the flooded road we parked the bike and assessed the situation. It didn’t look too bad at all. Honestly, it was a big puddle with a little bit of a river in the middle.  An attractive blonde Tv reporter with film camera was on the scene so I took off my helmet, straightened my hair and rubbed the white sunblock off my face. For added effect I took a deep breath and created a washboard stomach as I approached.  Susan could see I was out to impress but knew I couldn’t cover up the overpowering smell of fly repellent or the bright red thighs. I’m sure I caught them sharing a ‘I’m sorry for you’ look! 

This flood was big news in South Australia and the town had suffered greatly as this was the only main road north south and it was a holiday weekend.  Local business had been devastated by this closure. 

Mr Road approached in his 4×4 driving from town through the flood – I noticed the water didn’t reach his mud flaps. He said he would assess the situation and come back to me.  I spoke to the fire service and they offered to escort me through the water but Mr Road said ‘no’.  ‘The river has burst its banks and is flowing across the road and you could get washed out to sea’ he said with a stern face. I recognised the demeanour of an official with power in his hands and said nothing. The police motorcyclists took no proactive role – yes maybe I’m being unfair but they did look good zooming about and not getting involved.  

Oh it was such a struggle to be nice and pleasant when I was stuck at the wrong side of a ‘puddle’ and my motel for the night was 1km away. 

Then Mr Road returned and when I approached he said again ‘I will come back to you’ and gave me a ‘waggy’ finger before he drove off. Now in these situations I’m glad Susan trusts my judgement because when I said ‘right Susan, keep hold of the bike, we’re going through’ we clicked into forward action. Teamwork. 

We entered the water and all was fine. After 50m we got to the bit where the river was crossing the road. It was flowing and it caught the bike and it moved sideways. Things then got pretty serious – Susan splashed me!  Thankfully I was able to hold it together and keep moving forward. The water washed over the top of my shoes when we reached the deepest point at 2 inches. I didn’t panic and continued to walk without breathing to maintain my washboard stomach – I had noticed another Tv crew at the other side filming our crossing. 

We had beaten the blockade but declined an interview with yet another blonde attractive news woman. I’m trying not to be sexist but when you’re a guy with a white sunblock face, an overpowing smell of fly repellent, red thighs and wet feet you would rather be interviewed by an ugly guy. At least then I have a slight chance of looking good on Tv!

In a country founded by great explorers we had added to their history by crossing a big ‘puddle’.

Soon we were in our Port Wakefield motel in time to see the Western Bulldogs win the Aussie football grand final. 125km and a great end to a challenging day. 

We were off the road and safely ensconced in our nice motel room in Port Pirie when the biggest storm in 50 years hit South Australia yesterday bringing very high winds, torrential rain, lightning and flooding. To be honest it wasn’t really that bad – I can think of one or two summer BBQs in Scotland where the weather has been worse. 😃

As we sat reading and relaxing to pass the day away Susan asked me ‘do you think the power could ever be cut?’ I replied ‘of course’. Right at that moment, that exact moment, we lost all power! I looked at Susan and thought that was blinking clever. ‘What have you done? I asked. ‘Nothing, the power’s been cut!’  Well it just goes to show – I’m right again! 😃

It so transpired the whole of South Australia lost power – that’s an area the size of France and includes Adelaide. Last night we were in total blackout but it isn’t much of a hinderance as we are fully equipped for outback camping -it’s just like camping without the snakes and spiders. So we were quite comfortable in our room drinking wine. Here’s a photo of us enjoying ourselves and coping admirably in the blackout. I did tell Susan to put more clothes on but you know what’s she’s like, a bit of an exhibitionist!

Sorry it’s a bit underexposed (well apart from Susan of course) but it was a blackout.

We walked into town this morning and everywhere was closed due to the continuing power outage. You know it’s pretty serious when the Golden Arches of MacDonalds are blacked out. Dominos pizza and Subway were also shut! Where’s the State contingency planning and why has the army not being deployed to keep those essential services open at a time when people have no light, heating and can’t cook! 

The storm continues and today we are unable to cycle again as high winds and rain are affecting our road south. It’s a reasonably busy main road and our main issue is visibility when the rain is heavy. It actually looks like it will be Saturday before we can safely restart our journey.

In the meantime we are enjoying our enforced rest and I’m able to catch up on my reading and beer drinking. It’s not all roses, however, as Susan has limited me to low carbohydrate beer when I’m not cycling. It’s not easy being a beer drinking layabout cyclist.