Author: Clif & Susan
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Remember The Alamo
The real history behind the Alamo — a rebellion fought partly to preserve slavery, not just liberty — and John McGregor, the Scottish piper said to have duelled Davy Crockett’s fiddle during the siege.
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Border Bandito Country
A tense ride through cartel territory near the US border, a resolve not to stop for anyone — and then, after all the warnings, the friendliest border crossing of the entire Americas trip.
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Mehico City
Mexico City is sinking up to 50cm a year as its aquifer drains — the whole historic centre leans and dips, and the cathedral is expected to fall within 60 years.
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Spanner In The Works
A well-meaning fix to the bike’s wiring in a Puebla car park blows the main fuse — leading to a frantic taxi-to-truck-to-BMW-garage dash the day before they’re due to leave.
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Welcome To Mehico
Into Mexico via 25 paramilitary checkpoints, then one of the best motorcycle roads yet to wa-Ha-ka for Easter processions, mole poblano, and the story of Pancho Villa.
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Bordering Chaos
A single border crossing turns into a farcical loop between Guatemala and Mexico — back and forth through immigration, a closed bank, and a missing photocopy — before they’re finally, officially in Mexico.
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Antigua R&R
1,430 miles down, roughly 10,000 to go — a beer on an Antigua rooftop with Volcan de Agua for a backdrop, and six of nine countries behind them.
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The Friday Of Sorrows
Gridlocked traffic on a brutally steep Guatemalan mountain forces Susan off the bike to walk the hairpins on foot — in the heat, inches from passing buses — while Clif shuttles the bike up ahead.